Yesterday, Lucy, Georgi, Jo and Analise came down from Kuraburi to see the Vegetable Festival. This festival is a time that Chinese buddhists believe in the 9th month of their lunar cycle (happens to be our October this year) one should wear white.
The white shows a cleansing, clean, new spirit. Leaving any or all sins from the previous year behind. The only eat vegetables during this time, again a sign of one clensing the body. It's also a time for reflection on the previous year. To review and look at what was good and what was not so good.
Many people go into trances and start piercing themselves with swords, knives, and everyday household things, with the belief that if they do not bleed then they are cleansed, clean for the coming year.
One such test is to walk up a ladder whose steps are made of knives. Then down the other side. I've heard that if someone bleeds at any point on the steps they are removed - so as not to contaminate the other climbers.
All the temples in the Chinese district of Phuket are decorated, visited, prayed at. Some have large chimneys where offerings of pretend money are set on fire. Some also have a separate chimney stack that houses a bunch of fire crackers. When they go off the noise is unbelieveable.
The nightlife and food was delicious, we girls had great fun.
Monday, October 10, 2005
Saturday, October 08, 2005
Motorbikes
The mode of transport most families use here are motorbikes. As many as 5 family members fit on, perhaps 2 adults, 2 children and a baby. Most things can be transported by motorbike. Pigs, chickens, household equipment, bedding, guitars, computers, tools for anything, long tail boat engines and it's tail.
Riders are as young as 9 or 10 some times, even though the legal riding age is 16. Drivers can often be drunk, as there doesn't appear to be too much worry about drinking and driving here.
Motorbikes weave in and out of the traffic like buzzing bees. The most scary to me are the Farang tourist motorbike riders. Sitting atop the tiny little machines, they look oversized and ungainly on them, with the little baseball bat-like helmets sitting atop their big heads. Large, fat, gross long-term stay Farans with tiny little Thai 'girlfriends' can often be seen driving around Patong.
People get injured and killed easily in these circumstances. In class one day the news spread one of the girls had had a motorbike accident the previous day, had been taken to the hospital, but the injuries to her head were too serious and she died. Later another girl at class showed me the healing scars she still had as a result of a very bad motorbike accident. So bad it had put her out of work for at least 2 weeks. She'll always have significant scars as a result too. In fact most people have motorbike enduced scars here. Even if it's as small as the burn one gets from repeatetdly getting off on the wrong side. The side where the exhaust is, and which is extremely hot. Touching it immediately sears the flesh about half way down the calf. I know, I've done it twice already.
There's an entire category of dogs on motorbikes. One day, two dogs, big dogs, little dogs. Riding in the front basket, riding in the side basket, riding standing between their owners legs and paws on the handlebars... yes really.
My latest surprise pillion passenger was a monkey. Riding behind his owner with the breeze ruffling his fur, he looked perfectly content to be out on the open road.
Riders are as young as 9 or 10 some times, even though the legal riding age is 16. Drivers can often be drunk, as there doesn't appear to be too much worry about drinking and driving here.
Motorbikes weave in and out of the traffic like buzzing bees. The most scary to me are the Farang tourist motorbike riders. Sitting atop the tiny little machines, they look oversized and ungainly on them, with the little baseball bat-like helmets sitting atop their big heads. Large, fat, gross long-term stay Farans with tiny little Thai 'girlfriends' can often be seen driving around Patong.
People get injured and killed easily in these circumstances. In class one day the news spread one of the girls had had a motorbike accident the previous day, had been taken to the hospital, but the injuries to her head were too serious and she died. Later another girl at class showed me the healing scars she still had as a result of a very bad motorbike accident. So bad it had put her out of work for at least 2 weeks. She'll always have significant scars as a result too. In fact most people have motorbike enduced scars here. Even if it's as small as the burn one gets from repeatetdly getting off on the wrong side. The side where the exhaust is, and which is extremely hot. Touching it immediately sears the flesh about half way down the calf. I know, I've done it twice already.
There's an entire category of dogs on motorbikes. One day, two dogs, big dogs, little dogs. Riding in the front basket, riding in the side basket, riding standing between their owners legs and paws on the handlebars... yes really.
My latest surprise pillion passenger was a monkey. Riding behind his owner with the breeze ruffling his fur, he looked perfectly content to be out on the open road.
Thursday, October 06, 2005
Teaching English as a volunteer
I'm now teaching English on a volunteer basis in Patong. I work at a small ngo called EMPOWER. EMPOWER is basically a support group for the bar girls and entertainment (sex) workers.
The support given includes legal issues, human rights issues, health issues, anti-discrimination issues, stigma issues, English lessons and Thai lessons for girls who cannot read or write Thai. Many girls have little education whilst others are University educated.
All in all they're an amazing bunch of women. Most of the girls work 7 nights a week. Work usually starts somewhere between 5:00pm and 7:00pm, ending somewhere about 5:00am or so, depending on the customers.
The bar owners rent the bars for about 30,000 baht per month. Each one thinks they can make a killing by selling drink at elevated prices and selling the girls services for a fee. They provide 'free' bottles of whiskey at their bars for their girls. But mostly it's to keep the girls drunk and therefore not in their right senses for making informed decisions. The bar owners also rent houses and 'give' the girls rooms to sleep in for 'free'. Usually 4 girls to a room. The girls see this as a benefit, not realizing that they are being trapped by the bar owners into a dependency situation. Each girl is hoping that one of the Farang customers will fall in love with them, take them away from the bar life, marry them and support them. In some cases this does happen, for most though it does not. Marriages started under these circumstances rarely survive. The cultural differences alone between what a Thai lady expects from marriage and what a foreigner may expect are literally worlds apart.
Most of the girls have children, many with more than one. Each is workig to support not only their children but usually family members as well. They don't like the work, it's simply a job. And in high season, a well paying job. Better than a supermarket, hotel, restaurant or any other work they could get. Home to most is in the North East of Thailand, in a Province called Isaan. It's the poorest Province in the whole of Thailand.
In Isan girls are often still married off at 14 years old. Because of low education levels and low contraception education, they immediately start the cycle of pregnncy, birth, pregnancy, birth.
One girl has had 9 pregnancies since being married at 14, 6 of home died or miscarried simply due to the fact that her childish body was not capable of supporting a pregnancy due to maturity. After a baby is born, the mother and baby are put in a hut with a fire and only given warm water plus a vile tasting herbal concoction for up to 15 days. The longer you stay there the 'better' girl you are. Most people do a minimum of 9 days.
Because of the schedule the girls need to keep, each teaching day is unique. But the motivation and drive to learn usually brings them to class everyday they can make it. Because there's no consistent roll call of people, each day is taken one by one, depending on who turns up class can be anything from simply sitting and trying to read short easy books or it'll be hectic conversational training pieces. Occasionally interrupted with silly review games such as cross-words or flash cards (including cheat sheets so theyc an find the answer and not feel like they fail at something).
Low self esteem, societal pressures and the stigma associated with being a bar girl, lend the girls to having low self esteem. Make no mistake, they want to be accepted by society for who and what they are.
Everyone loves to pronounce the words correctly (meaning like an native English speaker). So in class if someone is reading out loud and they mis-pronounce a word, I will help them pronounce it more correctly. But often I don't even get the chance! One of the other girls will correct the mis-pronounced word to her. They want everyone of their friends and fellow community to speak English as well as they possibly can.
The group are a support to each other in many many ways. Sharing life, loves, hopes, dreams, wishes, problems, failures, successes and simply being big sisters to each other. Or Aunts. It's a powerful base of support to people in one of the most difficult jobs in the world.
But a group of women together is so much more powerful and empowered than individuals each on their own. They are truly empowered to take control of their own lives and futures.
The support given includes legal issues, human rights issues, health issues, anti-discrimination issues, stigma issues, English lessons and Thai lessons for girls who cannot read or write Thai. Many girls have little education whilst others are University educated.
All in all they're an amazing bunch of women. Most of the girls work 7 nights a week. Work usually starts somewhere between 5:00pm and 7:00pm, ending somewhere about 5:00am or so, depending on the customers.
The bar owners rent the bars for about 30,000 baht per month. Each one thinks they can make a killing by selling drink at elevated prices and selling the girls services for a fee. They provide 'free' bottles of whiskey at their bars for their girls. But mostly it's to keep the girls drunk and therefore not in their right senses for making informed decisions. The bar owners also rent houses and 'give' the girls rooms to sleep in for 'free'. Usually 4 girls to a room. The girls see this as a benefit, not realizing that they are being trapped by the bar owners into a dependency situation. Each girl is hoping that one of the Farang customers will fall in love with them, take them away from the bar life, marry them and support them. In some cases this does happen, for most though it does not. Marriages started under these circumstances rarely survive. The cultural differences alone between what a Thai lady expects from marriage and what a foreigner may expect are literally worlds apart.
Most of the girls have children, many with more than one. Each is workig to support not only their children but usually family members as well. They don't like the work, it's simply a job. And in high season, a well paying job. Better than a supermarket, hotel, restaurant or any other work they could get. Home to most is in the North East of Thailand, in a Province called Isaan. It's the poorest Province in the whole of Thailand.
In Isan girls are often still married off at 14 years old. Because of low education levels and low contraception education, they immediately start the cycle of pregnncy, birth, pregnancy, birth.
One girl has had 9 pregnancies since being married at 14, 6 of home died or miscarried simply due to the fact that her childish body was not capable of supporting a pregnancy due to maturity. After a baby is born, the mother and baby are put in a hut with a fire and only given warm water plus a vile tasting herbal concoction for up to 15 days. The longer you stay there the 'better' girl you are. Most people do a minimum of 9 days.
Because of the schedule the girls need to keep, each teaching day is unique. But the motivation and drive to learn usually brings them to class everyday they can make it. Because there's no consistent roll call of people, each day is taken one by one, depending on who turns up class can be anything from simply sitting and trying to read short easy books or it'll be hectic conversational training pieces. Occasionally interrupted with silly review games such as cross-words or flash cards (including cheat sheets so theyc an find the answer and not feel like they fail at something).
Low self esteem, societal pressures and the stigma associated with being a bar girl, lend the girls to having low self esteem. Make no mistake, they want to be accepted by society for who and what they are.
Everyone loves to pronounce the words correctly (meaning like an native English speaker). So in class if someone is reading out loud and they mis-pronounce a word, I will help them pronounce it more correctly. But often I don't even get the chance! One of the other girls will correct the mis-pronounced word to her. They want everyone of their friends and fellow community to speak English as well as they possibly can.
The group are a support to each other in many many ways. Sharing life, loves, hopes, dreams, wishes, problems, failures, successes and simply being big sisters to each other. Or Aunts. It's a powerful base of support to people in one of the most difficult jobs in the world.
But a group of women together is so much more powerful and empowered than individuals each on their own. They are truly empowered to take control of their own lives and futures.
Thursday, July 28, 2005
Evason Phuket Raceweek 2005
The annual Evason Phuket Raceweek is on. 5 days of yacht racing, prize giving and post race stories. How on earth am I here? The Race organizer, Andy, has connections with someone who knows NATR. In fact the Evason Spa and Hotel, where the contestants and post-race activities are being held, have their own post-Tsunami relief projects underway. Working with Ban Bangmuang school, they are helping to build a Learning Center.
With the relief projects connection between us, they invited NATR to show off it's Moken Handicrafts project. Appropriate as the Moken handicrafts are gorgeously made replicas of Kabang boats.
Mit, a new volunteer with NATR, Bodhi and I met up on 24th. They brought a large range of moken boats to sell. It was so good having their company. Needless to say we had a great evening at the Evason introductory party and cocktail hour. An essential part of the job you know, smoozing with the potential buyers.
The Governer of Phuket gave his speech to the crowd. Less pompous and stiff than many of the usual politician's, he gave a very genuine speech about how the Regatta helped tsunami recovery in so many ways. Bodhi's speech introduced who NATR is, why we're there and what our Moken project was about.
After the cocktail hour the three of us headed to Scruffy Murphy's, followed by a couple of other interesting bars along the Patong way. Finally hitting the sack at about 1:00am in the morning. I love when NATR folks come down to Patong, it livens up my currently very quiet life.
The 25th was set up day requiring some shopping for parts to make signs, hang signs, and generally pretty up the display area. As the display area was down on the beach, I had to park the car up at the top of a series of steps. Mit and I carried down the boats, two by two. It was hot work and the display area doesn't have a natural breeze flowing through it.
Finally we had the boats set out and the signs out. The evenings entertainment began, the prizes were given out and Trevor, a psychiatric nurse who was DJ'ing for the even, gave us a great introduction. Trevor's a very cool character to talk to. Living in Thailand for the last umpteen years, he dealt with many of the post-tsunami survivors and their grieving and counseling. He is an admirable individual, and, as with many of the people I've met in the last 6 months, someone to treasure knowing.
Many people expressed interest and we did sell a couple of boats our first evening. We hope more over the next couple of days as many people said they'd be back prepared to buy.
The Evason staff working the whole event are awesome. Helping us to get a better spot for the display, arranging night lighting, getting tables for setting up. And they are so interested to hear about the crafts and our tsunami relief. Wanting to know how are the children, do they have parents, do they go to school? I was able to answer that many are orphans, some lost one parent. NATR's scholarship funds are supporting those children who are both orphans, single parents and generally affected by the tsunami. They have 2 years of guaranteed suppport. Hopefully we can extend that up to college going age.
One gentleman I met had spent 7 months with the Moken in the Mergui Peninsula a good number of years ago and of course immediately recognized the distinctive Moken boat shape. His companion had also made a film on them some time ago. In fact there's supposed to be someone here called Marco currently making another documentary on the Moken.
I wonder what tonight will bring? I'm on my own for the next 2 nights selling the boats. As with any sea-based events, there are some salty characters. Hope I meet more tonight!
With the relief projects connection between us, they invited NATR to show off it's Moken Handicrafts project. Appropriate as the Moken handicrafts are gorgeously made replicas of Kabang boats.
Mit, a new volunteer with NATR, Bodhi and I met up on 24th. They brought a large range of moken boats to sell. It was so good having their company. Needless to say we had a great evening at the Evason introductory party and cocktail hour. An essential part of the job you know, smoozing with the potential buyers.
The Governer of Phuket gave his speech to the crowd. Less pompous and stiff than many of the usual politician's, he gave a very genuine speech about how the Regatta helped tsunami recovery in so many ways. Bodhi's speech introduced who NATR is, why we're there and what our Moken project was about.
After the cocktail hour the three of us headed to Scruffy Murphy's, followed by a couple of other interesting bars along the Patong way. Finally hitting the sack at about 1:00am in the morning. I love when NATR folks come down to Patong, it livens up my currently very quiet life.
The 25th was set up day requiring some shopping for parts to make signs, hang signs, and generally pretty up the display area. As the display area was down on the beach, I had to park the car up at the top of a series of steps. Mit and I carried down the boats, two by two. It was hot work and the display area doesn't have a natural breeze flowing through it.
Finally we had the boats set out and the signs out. The evenings entertainment began, the prizes were given out and Trevor, a psychiatric nurse who was DJ'ing for the even, gave us a great introduction. Trevor's a very cool character to talk to. Living in Thailand for the last umpteen years, he dealt with many of the post-tsunami survivors and their grieving and counseling. He is an admirable individual, and, as with many of the people I've met in the last 6 months, someone to treasure knowing.
Many people expressed interest and we did sell a couple of boats our first evening. We hope more over the next couple of days as many people said they'd be back prepared to buy.
The Evason staff working the whole event are awesome. Helping us to get a better spot for the display, arranging night lighting, getting tables for setting up. And they are so interested to hear about the crafts and our tsunami relief. Wanting to know how are the children, do they have parents, do they go to school? I was able to answer that many are orphans, some lost one parent. NATR's scholarship funds are supporting those children who are both orphans, single parents and generally affected by the tsunami. They have 2 years of guaranteed suppport. Hopefully we can extend that up to college going age.
One gentleman I met had spent 7 months with the Moken in the Mergui Peninsula a good number of years ago and of course immediately recognized the distinctive Moken boat shape. His companion had also made a film on them some time ago. In fact there's supposed to be someone here called Marco currently making another documentary on the Moken.
I wonder what tonight will bring? I'm on my own for the next 2 nights selling the boats. As with any sea-based events, there are some salty characters. Hope I meet more tonight!
Tuesday, July 26, 2005
Sigh - another earthquake evacuation
My sleep patterns have been off recently. I put it down to Jeff not being here right now. I miss him. I miss having someone to curl up to going asleep. It was 11:45pm and I still coudn't sleep when a call came from Pa (number 1 daughter). Surprised at the lateness of the call I answered wondering what could be up. "Had I heard there'd been an 7.2 earthquake in Sumatra?" Pa asked. No, I hadn't. And the Thai Government had given a tsunami warning.
Pulling on my clothes I headed downstairs to talk with the security guard and Ot. I knew Ot would still be up and sufing the internet. It took me a couple of moments to explain in my little bits of Thai that we were going to have to wake Wassana and start a tsunami watch.
Heading back up stairs to get my backpack, which holds my life, Ot headed off to wake Wassana and get his bag.
Neither Ot nor Wassana are comfortable speaking the little English they know. As the News was in Thai, it was going to be an interesting translation night.
Japan had warned Thailand to expect a tsunami. A 50 - 50 chance. Looking at the USGS earthquake page, talking to Jeff in the US and seeing the earthquake was on the West side, not where the December earthqake had been, I figured the chances were pretty slim of a large tsunami. There would be small tsunami waves, but nothing damaging or serious. In any case our little hotel is 2 roads back from the beach. The December tsunami had washed over the lower floor, up to a couple of inches, but nothing damaging.
That didn't matter, Ot, Wassana and the Security Guard were believing the news and looked worried. Attempting to explain the logistics of what is necessary for a tsunami, they finally got it that it was really not likely this time.
Many people in Patong were heading for the hills. The Tsunami warning system had been set off, and there some sort official car announcing something in Thai drove along our road. I hope they said something in English for the non-Thai speaking Farang. But it probably didn't matter, the sound quality was so bad it was difficult to make out whether it was Thai or English in the first place.
My friends and colleagues at North Andaman Tsunami Relief kept me up to date with any new information they got. Most of the coastla villages in and around Kuraburi, Phang Nga province, had evacuated.
Thai news warned us that it would be 2 hours before the danger was over. By 2:00am I was bored and tired. Finally we got the all clear, no tsunami this time. Everyone headed off to bed.
I guess I shouldn't sigh about a good tsunami warning and exercise, but this is the fourth since March, and the edge is gone off the initial adrenalin rush of the past.
Pulling on my clothes I headed downstairs to talk with the security guard and Ot. I knew Ot would still be up and sufing the internet. It took me a couple of moments to explain in my little bits of Thai that we were going to have to wake Wassana and start a tsunami watch.
Heading back up stairs to get my backpack, which holds my life, Ot headed off to wake Wassana and get his bag.
Neither Ot nor Wassana are comfortable speaking the little English they know. As the News was in Thai, it was going to be an interesting translation night.
Japan had warned Thailand to expect a tsunami. A 50 - 50 chance. Looking at the USGS earthquake page, talking to Jeff in the US and seeing the earthquake was on the West side, not where the December earthqake had been, I figured the chances were pretty slim of a large tsunami. There would be small tsunami waves, but nothing damaging or serious. In any case our little hotel is 2 roads back from the beach. The December tsunami had washed over the lower floor, up to a couple of inches, but nothing damaging.
That didn't matter, Ot, Wassana and the Security Guard were believing the news and looked worried. Attempting to explain the logistics of what is necessary for a tsunami, they finally got it that it was really not likely this time.
Many people in Patong were heading for the hills. The Tsunami warning system had been set off, and there some sort official car announcing something in Thai drove along our road. I hope they said something in English for the non-Thai speaking Farang. But it probably didn't matter, the sound quality was so bad it was difficult to make out whether it was Thai or English in the first place.
My friends and colleagues at North Andaman Tsunami Relief kept me up to date with any new information they got. Most of the coastla villages in and around Kuraburi, Phang Nga province, had evacuated.
Thai news warned us that it would be 2 hours before the danger was over. By 2:00am I was bored and tired. Finally we got the all clear, no tsunami this time. Everyone headed off to bed.
I guess I shouldn't sigh about a good tsunami warning and exercise, but this is the fourth since March, and the edge is gone off the initial adrenalin rush of the past.
Wednesday, July 20, 2005
Dogs' balls
The wild dogs on Kho Phrathong island are causing problems with the local wildlife. They kill whatever they can for food. They're a mangy lot. Many have festering sores, hairless because of mange so bad they're bald, so think they're nearly invisible. But they're still well able to propogate. So much so that on one part of the island, Tapa Yoi village, there are now about 80 dogs.
The villagers were offered the opportunity to have the dogs nutered. The heads of all three villages on Kho Phrathong agreed and so a plan was devised. The dogs would be fed in the late evenings, close to the villages for a few days prior to the pending neutering. The villagers would capture the dogs the night before the veterinarians were due to arrive so that it would be a quick fix and release operation. The 10 veterinarians were offering their professional services for a very small fee to help solve the dog explostion problem on the island.
Tung Dap village went as planned, many dogs were neutered successfully. But the Pu Yai (Chief) of the village hadn't done the requested work. In fact he's a bit of a charlatan and is only in any project for what he can get out of it. As Chief of the village he has a lot of power and pretty much has caused the Tapa Yoi people many unnecessary difficulties since the tsunami than there needed to be. So much so that the village decamped to the local Wat on the mainland of Kuraburi at one point, even though their houses hadn't been destroyed by the tsunami. To chose to live in a tent in the grounds of the Wat in preference to your home tells you how much he affected and continues to affect their lives.
Anyway, at the end of the day only 10 dogs were captured and neutered at Tapa Yoi. But the volunteers on the island for the weekend of neutering were able to get some satisfaction from the Tung Dap success plus getting some clearing and replanting done in the mangroves. Another laptop and blackberry were found in the mangroves, washed their by the wave.
The villagers were offered the opportunity to have the dogs nutered. The heads of all three villages on Kho Phrathong agreed and so a plan was devised. The dogs would be fed in the late evenings, close to the villages for a few days prior to the pending neutering. The villagers would capture the dogs the night before the veterinarians were due to arrive so that it would be a quick fix and release operation. The 10 veterinarians were offering their professional services for a very small fee to help solve the dog explostion problem on the island.
Tung Dap village went as planned, many dogs were neutered successfully. But the Pu Yai (Chief) of the village hadn't done the requested work. In fact he's a bit of a charlatan and is only in any project for what he can get out of it. As Chief of the village he has a lot of power and pretty much has caused the Tapa Yoi people many unnecessary difficulties since the tsunami than there needed to be. So much so that the village decamped to the local Wat on the mainland of Kuraburi at one point, even though their houses hadn't been destroyed by the tsunami. To chose to live in a tent in the grounds of the Wat in preference to your home tells you how much he affected and continues to affect their lives.
Anyway, at the end of the day only 10 dogs were captured and neutered at Tapa Yoi. But the volunteers on the island for the weekend of neutering were able to get some satisfaction from the Tung Dap success plus getting some clearing and replanting done in the mangroves. Another laptop and blackberry were found in the mangroves, washed their by the wave.
Monday, July 18, 2005
Land owners in Costa Rica
I can't believe it, but we're now land owners in Costa Rica. It's in a small town of about 2,000 people called Cahuita on the Caribbean coast. The property has over 30 coconut trees, some banana and papaya trees and 2 dogs. Yes, 2 dogs. The 2 dogs apparently come with the land.
It's bare, nothing there except trees and jungle vegetation. We're hoping to build a house and a couple of cabinas. Eventually we'll rent it out as we continue on our world journey. And the actual building of living quarters won't start until next year (2006) some time anyway.
But, it's so exciting. I'm now beginning research on how houses are built. Phew, there's a lot to know. Plus there's all the legal things that have to go just right so there are no problems. It's pretty easy to own property in Costa Rica, the hard part will be getting the house and cabinas built.
Another language to learn - Costa Rican Spanish.
It's bare, nothing there except trees and jungle vegetation. We're hoping to build a house and a couple of cabinas. Eventually we'll rent it out as we continue on our world journey. And the actual building of living quarters won't start until next year (2006) some time anyway.
But, it's so exciting. I'm now beginning research on how houses are built. Phew, there's a lot to know. Plus there's all the legal things that have to go just right so there are no problems. It's pretty easy to own property in Costa Rica, the hard part will be getting the house and cabinas built.
Another language to learn - Costa Rican Spanish.
Sunday, July 17, 2005
Big Spider
Spider as big as my hand. Oh oh. It ran under the curtains, after I'd tried and failed to catch it in a box.
Later it appeared between the mosquito screen and the window, trapping it in such a way that I could push it towards the open glass door. Then I hooshed it out. Phew. I shut the doors - twang. I felt relieved. Logically I know there are more lurking somewhere - just not in my bedroom ... please.
Later it appeared between the mosquito screen and the window, trapping it in such a way that I could push it towards the open glass door. Then I hooshed it out. Phew. I shut the doors - twang. I felt relieved. Logically I know there are more lurking somewhere - just not in my bedroom ... please.
Delicious, scrumptious fruit
Some of the delicious fruit we've tasted so far...
Durian
Farang
Rambutan
Longan
Longsat
Lychee
Snake fruit
Dragon fruit
Pineapple
Tamarind
Cashew fruit
Papaya
Mangoes
Water Melon
Apple banana
Tangerine
Jackfruit
Coconut
Pomelo
Guava
Mangosteen
Durian
Farang
Rambutan
Longan
Longsat
Lychee
Snake fruit
Dragon fruit
Pineapple
Tamarind
Cashew fruit
Papaya
Mangoes
Water Melon
Apple banana
Tangerine
Jackfruit
Coconut
Pomelo
Guava
Mangosteen
Peter's birthday party
Tae and her 4 sisters, plus Debra, Peter and I set off for Rang Rak (Love Nest), the best restaurant we've found so far in Kathu. Celebrating Peter's birthday with a sumptuous Thai meal, giving of gift and birthday cards, and devouring THE most delicious birthday cake I've ever tasted - and I don't even like cakes.
Off to Galaxy for some music and dancing nightclubbing, then onto karaoke. I left at 3:00am, the others left somewhere much later than that.
Off to Galaxy for some music and dancing nightclubbing, then onto karaoke. I left at 3:00am, the others left somewhere much later than that.
Saturday, July 16, 2005
Metz - Number 3 son's graduation ceremony
Metz (Somchai), my number 3 son, graduated from the Political Science faculty of Chualalongkorn University, Bangkok, on 14th July 2005. Determination and a clear goal won him a full scholarship to one of Thailand's most famous Universities. As the oldest of 4 sons, hopefully he's leading the way for his younger siblings. Metz's parents are farmers, living and working their farm in Rayong, some 3 hours drive from Bangkok.
Metz Mom and Dad
Children from wealthier families easily pay the Chualalongkorn University fees, Metz had to earn his every inch of the way. I am so proud of him. It is within Metz to rise to great heights in his life and work.
Number 3 son Metz (Somchai)
Metz had spent the summer months working with NATR, translating and helping with the co-ordination of projects for our NGO. I remember one specific conversation with him which told me how deeply he cared for the betterment of all people in Thailand. It didn't matter if they were Burmese, Thai, Moken, Hmong, Muslim, Bhuddist, Christian. Metz's zeal is to level the playing fields for ordinary people. To give people a chance. To try and redress the terrible abuses and corruption that government, military and other officials exact from the poorest of the poor. Sometimes endangering their livelihoods and even their lives. His determination if nothing else will surely make it happen.
That's not to say Thailand's either the only corrupt country or is all bad. Not at all. I consider all politicians corrupt to a greater or lesser degree, no matter what country they are from. The West simply manages to hide the corruption better.
What Thailand has going for it, besides Metz, is it's people, they are true their wealth.
Princess Marachakri Sirindthorn, who had visited Kuraburi a few months earlier and met Metz, presented him with his Degree certificate.
All throughout the day hords of current University students, dressed in uniforms, would gather around the people graduating and sing and dance in a circle to celebrate the event.
People milled around in bunches and singles, just enjoying the excitement and air of happiness throughout the day.
Waiting to present a celebratory bouquet
Pretty in Pink
Celebrating at dinner afterwards
Mom, Dad, Metz and his three brothers. Little Nim the rascal managed to sneak into the photo too
The bowtie fixing
Metz and college friends
Metz and Georgi
Hying and Phylippa
Vendors sell their wares to hungry graduates, friends and families
Brothers celebrate together
All in all it was a great day. We ended up on Khaosan road in a small nightclub at the back of a less than sparkling mall.
Metz Mom and Dad
Children from wealthier families easily pay the Chualalongkorn University fees, Metz had to earn his every inch of the way. I am so proud of him. It is within Metz to rise to great heights in his life and work.
Number 3 son Metz (Somchai)
Metz had spent the summer months working with NATR, translating and helping with the co-ordination of projects for our NGO. I remember one specific conversation with him which told me how deeply he cared for the betterment of all people in Thailand. It didn't matter if they were Burmese, Thai, Moken, Hmong, Muslim, Bhuddist, Christian. Metz's zeal is to level the playing fields for ordinary people. To give people a chance. To try and redress the terrible abuses and corruption that government, military and other officials exact from the poorest of the poor. Sometimes endangering their livelihoods and even their lives. His determination if nothing else will surely make it happen.
That's not to say Thailand's either the only corrupt country or is all bad. Not at all. I consider all politicians corrupt to a greater or lesser degree, no matter what country they are from. The West simply manages to hide the corruption better.
What Thailand has going for it, besides Metz, is it's people, they are true their wealth.
Princess Marachakri Sirindthorn, who had visited Kuraburi a few months earlier and met Metz, presented him with his Degree certificate.
All throughout the day hords of current University students, dressed in uniforms, would gather around the people graduating and sing and dance in a circle to celebrate the event.
People milled around in bunches and singles, just enjoying the excitement and air of happiness throughout the day.
Waiting to present a celebratory bouquet
Pretty in Pink
Celebrating at dinner afterwards
Mom, Dad, Metz and his three brothers. Little Nim the rascal managed to sneak into the photo too
The bowtie fixing
Metz and college friends
Metz and Georgi
Hying and Phylippa
Vendors sell their wares to hungry graduates, friends and families
Brothers celebrate together
All in all it was a great day. We ended up on Khaosan road in a small nightclub at the back of a less than sparkling mall.
Wednesday, June 22, 2005
When is an idea True?
The number of people who believe in an idea is no measure of the truth or falsehood of that idea.
Monday, May 02, 2005
Thailand 100 days and more Post Tsunami
It's impossible to capture all the thoughts, feelings, reactions, interactions and work I've been involved with over the last 3-4 months.
I remember landing in SFO on Christmas Day, very late night. Our cab ride from the Airport to our friends house in downtown San Francisco was quiet and pleasant, with little or no traffic on the road. The fare of course was a shocker, having lived in South East Asia for the better part of 5 months, it would have covered at least a week of accommodation and food for the two of us.
The house was quiet as the owners were out celebrating the Xmas season with friends. We settled in and waited for their arrival home. Once home, we arranged to drive them to the Airport the next morning at 4:00am as they were heading to Florida to family and friends on 26th December.
Rising at 4:00am was easy. I was still on Asia time and wide awake so I thought I'd check email and SFGATE for news. It was only then I saw an email from my brother asking me if I was ok after the earthquake in the Andaman sea and the subsequent tsunami. Thailand, Phuket and the North Andaman islands, where I/we had been staying had all been badly hit.
I turned on the TV and sat in shock as I watched what felt like a bad B movie. This was the same sensation I'd had when the Twin Towers were destroyed by the planes being smashed into them. It didn't feel real, therefore it must be a movie, and a bad one at that.
But it was all true.
I let my family know immediately that I and Jeff were ok - that we'd left Thailand on 25th December 2004 and were safe.
It took me three weeks to get back to Thailand. In those 3 weeks I followed the repercussions of the tsunami aftermath daily. I had close friends who were still in areas hit by the tsunami. One Thai friend didn't make it. Ae died on the island of Ko Phra Thong where I'd spent 8 days at a yoga retreat. 'She' had been going through the process of changing from a physical man to a woman. Ae loved clothes and she had an extensive wardrobe, mainly given to her by the guests staying at the Golden Buddha Beach resort where she worked.
Ae, Rachel and Khun before Tsunami
Rebecca, a Farang volunteer at the Turtle conservation project on the island and who had spent a lot of time with me explaining the work she did with the turtles, also died.
All my other friends scattered about Thailand by this time were ok.
Now, nearly 4 months later, I'm still in Thailand, still working as a volunteer for the North Andaman Tsunami Relief organization. The website is www.northandamantsunamirelief.com.
My memories and experiences are incredible. The people, both Thai and Farang, I've met have been, and are incredible. I consider myself the luckiest person in the world to have been able to be here at this time.
The volunteer organization is based in a tiny Thai village called Kuraburi and services many of the tsunami hit villages in the region because the Government and large organizations mainly ignored this area initially.
I remember landing in SFO on Christmas Day, very late night. Our cab ride from the Airport to our friends house in downtown San Francisco was quiet and pleasant, with little or no traffic on the road. The fare of course was a shocker, having lived in South East Asia for the better part of 5 months, it would have covered at least a week of accommodation and food for the two of us.
The house was quiet as the owners were out celebrating the Xmas season with friends. We settled in and waited for their arrival home. Once home, we arranged to drive them to the Airport the next morning at 4:00am as they were heading to Florida to family and friends on 26th December.
Rising at 4:00am was easy. I was still on Asia time and wide awake so I thought I'd check email and SFGATE for news. It was only then I saw an email from my brother asking me if I was ok after the earthquake in the Andaman sea and the subsequent tsunami. Thailand, Phuket and the North Andaman islands, where I/we had been staying had all been badly hit.
I turned on the TV and sat in shock as I watched what felt like a bad B movie. This was the same sensation I'd had when the Twin Towers were destroyed by the planes being smashed into them. It didn't feel real, therefore it must be a movie, and a bad one at that.
But it was all true.
I let my family know immediately that I and Jeff were ok - that we'd left Thailand on 25th December 2004 and were safe.
It took me three weeks to get back to Thailand. In those 3 weeks I followed the repercussions of the tsunami aftermath daily. I had close friends who were still in areas hit by the tsunami. One Thai friend didn't make it. Ae died on the island of Ko Phra Thong where I'd spent 8 days at a yoga retreat. 'She' had been going through the process of changing from a physical man to a woman. Ae loved clothes and she had an extensive wardrobe, mainly given to her by the guests staying at the Golden Buddha Beach resort where she worked.
Ae, Rachel and Khun before Tsunami
Rebecca, a Farang volunteer at the Turtle conservation project on the island and who had spent a lot of time with me explaining the work she did with the turtles, also died.
All my other friends scattered about Thailand by this time were ok.
Now, nearly 4 months later, I'm still in Thailand, still working as a volunteer for the North Andaman Tsunami Relief organization. The website is www.northandamantsunamirelief.com.
My memories and experiences are incredible. The people, both Thai and Farang, I've met have been, and are incredible. I consider myself the luckiest person in the world to have been able to be here at this time.
The volunteer organization is based in a tiny Thai village called Kuraburi and services many of the tsunami hit villages in the region because the Government and large organizations mainly ignored this area initially.
Monday, April 25, 2005
Moken Lobong full moon celebrations
Since the tsunami the Moken Sea Gypsy way of life has been documented, photographed, reported and filmed by TV crews and journalists over and over again. It's not the first time articles and TV crews have investigated the Moken way of life, but it's never been so intense or so widely reported around the globe. To find out more about the Moken Sea Gypsy way of life do a google search. You'll find many well written articles and great information. I'm not an expert, so I won't even attempt to write about their culture and lives. But I do have some unique experiences. Some better than others, but none I regret.
Our little ngo was delivering rice and fresh veggies and a boat to the village on what happened to be the Annual Lobong full moon celebration.
Rice onboard. Enough rice for 60 families for several months required a rather large boat to transport out to the Surin islands.
We would spend 4 days and 3 nights on board. Travelling to and from the Moken village by longtail boat during the day. The nights were hot so my best friend Nicole and I slept on top of the boat, literally. It was awkward climbing up and down, especially in the dark of night. Spectacular sunsets were the norm in the evening.
The animist Moken worship by feasting, dancing, singing and putting themselves into a trance. This lasts for several days and is capped by the release at sea of a token Moken boat. On board are spirit sticks which look similar to small totem polls and are supposed to take away all the bad sprits of the year.
Symbolic spirit boat
For me the most joyous moments were playing with the Moken children on. The photo shoot that caught the following photos happened spontaneously. The way I like it. One of the Moken children noticed I had a camera and he made sure I understood he wanted me to take photos. With a digital camera came instant gratification. Of course all the children had to see each new photo at once. Each shot meant I ended up covered in children trying to see the little screen.
The two leaders. The little guy on the left did all the directing. He lined up the children in different groups. Some were obviously his best buddies or part of the 'gang' as they got more photo time exposure than some others.
The little girls were more shy than the boys. But even for them sometimes it was hard to keep a straight face.
Moken Children feel the dent in Chris' back. He lost 4" in height due to a car accident. The tattoo on his back is amazing, but it was his scars that fascinated the children the most.
The boss gets the chair.
He was a serious little fellow.
As the Lobong celebration came to an end and we prepared to head back to the mainland, some 30 or so Moken villagers climbed aboard our boat. It's fairly usual for the Moken to hop on board boats returning to the mainland. Many have relatives there and it's an opportunity to make a visit. But we also had some very sick young children and older villagers. Our task was to get them to the mainland, then drive them to a clinic in Ranong. It was a clinic they were comfortable visiting, they knew the doctor and knew there wouldn't be questions about nationality or citizenship. Most Moken don't have any citizenship and therefore don't get free medical aid. Our ngo covered their doctor and presciprtions costs. Transport was one pick up truck and a car. The most seriously ill came with me in the car, while the remainder travelled in the back of the pickup truck. It was a mostly silent trip, communication being by sign language as my passengers didn't speak English and I didn't speak Moken.
The return trip to Kuraburi takes about an hour and a half. With monsoon rains pouring down, the passengers in the back of the pick up truck only had straw mats to cover them. They were soaked. Most then chose to sleep at the Kuraburi pier, waiting for the morning boat back to Ko surin.
Our little ngo was delivering rice and fresh veggies and a boat to the village on what happened to be the Annual Lobong full moon celebration.
Rice onboard. Enough rice for 60 families for several months required a rather large boat to transport out to the Surin islands.
We would spend 4 days and 3 nights on board. Travelling to and from the Moken village by longtail boat during the day. The nights were hot so my best friend Nicole and I slept on top of the boat, literally. It was awkward climbing up and down, especially in the dark of night. Spectacular sunsets were the norm in the evening.
The animist Moken worship by feasting, dancing, singing and putting themselves into a trance. This lasts for several days and is capped by the release at sea of a token Moken boat. On board are spirit sticks which look similar to small totem polls and are supposed to take away all the bad sprits of the year.
Symbolic spirit boat
For me the most joyous moments were playing with the Moken children on. The photo shoot that caught the following photos happened spontaneously. The way I like it. One of the Moken children noticed I had a camera and he made sure I understood he wanted me to take photos. With a digital camera came instant gratification. Of course all the children had to see each new photo at once. Each shot meant I ended up covered in children trying to see the little screen.
The two leaders. The little guy on the left did all the directing. He lined up the children in different groups. Some were obviously his best buddies or part of the 'gang' as they got more photo time exposure than some others.
The little girls were more shy than the boys. But even for them sometimes it was hard to keep a straight face.
Moken Children feel the dent in Chris' back. He lost 4" in height due to a car accident. The tattoo on his back is amazing, but it was his scars that fascinated the children the most.
The boss gets the chair.
He was a serious little fellow.
As the Lobong celebration came to an end and we prepared to head back to the mainland, some 30 or so Moken villagers climbed aboard our boat. It's fairly usual for the Moken to hop on board boats returning to the mainland. Many have relatives there and it's an opportunity to make a visit. But we also had some very sick young children and older villagers. Our task was to get them to the mainland, then drive them to a clinic in Ranong. It was a clinic they were comfortable visiting, they knew the doctor and knew there wouldn't be questions about nationality or citizenship. Most Moken don't have any citizenship and therefore don't get free medical aid. Our ngo covered their doctor and presciprtions costs. Transport was one pick up truck and a car. The most seriously ill came with me in the car, while the remainder travelled in the back of the pickup truck. It was a mostly silent trip, communication being by sign language as my passengers didn't speak English and I didn't speak Moken.
The return trip to Kuraburi takes about an hour and a half. With monsoon rains pouring down, the passengers in the back of the pick up truck only had straw mats to cover them. They were soaked. Most then chose to sleep at the Kuraburi pier, waiting for the morning boat back to Ko surin.
Sunday, March 27, 2005
Duk's Story
Duk lost countless neighbours from his village of Bak Jok on the island of Koh Phrathong. Bak Jok was literally wiped off the face of the earth.
His father and mother had sacrified time with their son by sending him to Bangkok for an education. And it had only been in recent years Duk had returned to his island village home. It had taken him time to understand that his parents had not sent him away because they didn't want him, but becuase they loved him enough to get him the best education they could. Duk had finally reached a point where he had regained a close and loving relationship with his parents after the many years of separation.
Duk had worked at the Golden Buddha Beach resort on the island for about a year. Shortly before Christmas he traded it in for a job in Bangkok. His mother and father remained on the island. His mother at the resort and his father a fisherman of Bak Jok village.
Duk spoke with his mother at least 2 - 3 times a day. At a minimum he called her when he got up in the morning and in the evening when he got home. He missed the company of his family and community on Bak Jok. Duk was on the phone to his mother who was asking him if they were safe when she was swept away by the tsunami. It was he who had to search for and identify her body.
His dog actually tracked down the body and now it won't stray more than a few feet away from him. His parents had been married for over 40 years and his father is still grieving deeply for his wife. Duke and his father now live in temporary housing at the Kuraburi Pier camp. When I say temporary I mean extremely temporary, but it's a step up from the tents they were in at first.
Not only did Duk lose his mother, but in total he lost 14 members of his family. All from Bak Jok. He also lost many village neighbors and friends.
Duk's strength in the face of such personal disaster is humbling. Acting as a translator for NATR he helps with sorting out the needs of survivors at the temporary camp. Amazingly when he gets too close to a problem in his village he will say he's the wrong person to ask about something that we need a more impartial answer. He also looks for inequalities in how Thai survivors are treated and other non-Thai tribes or immigrants such as the Moken and the Burmese.
My relationship with the Thai translators and many of the long-stay volunteers evolved into one of being a Mom. Duk became Number 1 son. Pa (Thai, pronounced Ba) became Number 1 daughter. Peach (Thai) and Jel (Dutch volunteer) became Number 2 Twin daughters. Nim (Thai) became Number 3 daughter. And Chris (US volunteer) became Number 3 son.
His father and mother had sacrified time with their son by sending him to Bangkok for an education. And it had only been in recent years Duk had returned to his island village home. It had taken him time to understand that his parents had not sent him away because they didn't want him, but becuase they loved him enough to get him the best education they could. Duk had finally reached a point where he had regained a close and loving relationship with his parents after the many years of separation.
Duk had worked at the Golden Buddha Beach resort on the island for about a year. Shortly before Christmas he traded it in for a job in Bangkok. His mother and father remained on the island. His mother at the resort and his father a fisherman of Bak Jok village.
Duk spoke with his mother at least 2 - 3 times a day. At a minimum he called her when he got up in the morning and in the evening when he got home. He missed the company of his family and community on Bak Jok. Duk was on the phone to his mother who was asking him if they were safe when she was swept away by the tsunami. It was he who had to search for and identify her body.
His dog actually tracked down the body and now it won't stray more than a few feet away from him. His parents had been married for over 40 years and his father is still grieving deeply for his wife. Duke and his father now live in temporary housing at the Kuraburi Pier camp. When I say temporary I mean extremely temporary, but it's a step up from the tents they were in at first.
Not only did Duk lose his mother, but in total he lost 14 members of his family. All from Bak Jok. He also lost many village neighbors and friends.
Duk's strength in the face of such personal disaster is humbling. Acting as a translator for NATR he helps with sorting out the needs of survivors at the temporary camp. Amazingly when he gets too close to a problem in his village he will say he's the wrong person to ask about something that we need a more impartial answer. He also looks for inequalities in how Thai survivors are treated and other non-Thai tribes or immigrants such as the Moken and the Burmese.
My relationship with the Thai translators and many of the long-stay volunteers evolved into one of being a Mom. Duk became Number 1 son. Pa (Thai, pronounced Ba) became Number 1 daughter. Peach (Thai) and Jel (Dutch volunteer) became Number 2 Twin daughters. Nim (Thai) became Number 3 daughter. And Chris (US volunteer) became Number 3 son.
Sunday, February 27, 2005
Tsunami Relief - the first month
It's been the better part of a month since we landed in little Kuraburi to do what we could for the North Andaman Tsunami Relief (NATR) NGO. As a small NGO it's been possible to hit the road running, making immiediate impact at the grassroots level.
In the 'office' everyone works 16 hours a day every day here. It's intense but rewarding at the same time. Our entire technology inventory consists of 3 laptops, all borrowed. Internet access is by dialp-up DKU2 phone. Effectively as fast as a string and two cans.
Initial goals are to provide immediate, short term aid to survivors who strive to get their lives and livelihoods back on track. And attempt to so in an ecologically and sustainable way, where appropriate. A longterm goal is to provide vocational educational training for survivors who wish to choose a different lifestyle post-tsunami. Many survivors won't return to their former lives, fearing another tsunami. Or are simply unable to face living in a place that caused them so great loss.
Regular fresh food and vegetable deliveries ease life in the villages and temporary camps. The Thai Government supplies some stables like rice, but they do not provide fresh vegetables. Vegetables cost money and survivors have none. Family incomes have been slashed to zero because there is no work, no boats to fish, no nets to catch crabs.
Imagine how much fresh food you need for a community!
NATR helps to provide tools and equipment to fishermen for boats, nets and trap repair. Equipment will enable fishermen to begin fishing again and earning money. Tsunami survivors certainly appreciate all the help from around the world as a whole, but like you or I, they are anxious to get back on their feet. To start earning an income again so they can take care of their families.
Hilarious situations and curious requests abound along the way. Most entertaining was delivery of some 300 live chickens. My dearest friend Bonnie describes the process on her web blog best.
FROM LIVESTOCK REPLACEMENT PROGRAM
"The Thai government has agreed to assist some villages with replacement of livestock, but will not begin the process for at least 6 months. In the village of Laem Naew, some goats and water buffalo survived, but most of the chickens in the village perished in the tsunami. All 30 households in the village owned chickens. Community discussions reveal that goats and water buffalo are not viable solutions in the short term, due to the fact that the grass upon which they feed has died, and will take time to grow back. Therefore, chickens are the most useful livestock at this time.
Focus groups have indicated that villagers prefer the local variety chickens from Ranong rather than factory-bred chickens from Takua Pa. Local (wild) chickens do not require feed and regular feeding."
Do you have wild chickens there in Ranong?
"Yes, we have wild chickens."
We need approximately ten per family, thirty families.
"Okay."
So you have the chickens.
"Yes, we have the chickens."
We need 300 chickens. You have 300 wild chickens.
"Yes, we have the chickens."
NATR staff drives to Ranong to acquire chickens for Laem Naew. When we get there, we discover there are no wild chickens. We call another village.
Do you have wild chickens?
"Yes, we have wild chickens."
We drive to the village. They have five wild chickens. Five. All running around, well, wild.
Can we get the chickens?
"You cannot catch them now."
We cannot catch them now? Why?
"You cannot catch wild chickens. Very difficult."
But we need the chickens.
"You must come at midnight. The chickens sleep then. You catch the chickens at night."
Okay.
Several local villages later, NATR staff acquires and delivers chickens according to the local methodology. Yet another culturally sensitive success for our chaos surfing team.
Wild chickens propsper on Laem Naew
Laem Naew is my favorite village. As it's a muslim village I cover up completely when visiting. Which is a very sweaty experience in the height of a hot, humid Thai Summer!
Laem Naew sits on a piece of land jutting out into the Andaman Sea. There are no roads to the village. To get there I drive an hour to the nearest pier, then take 30 minute long-boat trip. One particular boat trip stands out in my mind. On board were 3 Sherpas from Nepal, 2 Christian ministers, many US volunteers, myself and a Muslim family from Laem Naem who's little son sported an Osama Bin Laden T-shirt, quickly covered up by his Mother when she noticed me looking at it. I smiled to myself, amazed at the moment. So many cultures and people sharing such a tiny vessel in peace.
A glimpse of the the Mosque's golden roof tells me we're close.
Why is it my favorite village? Because they don't ask for more than they need.
When Laem Naew's old electricity generator failed, they borrowed one from a shop in Ranong. Hoping to fix the old one, an inspection showed it had been cobbled together from different manufacturers, parts impossible to replace. It was inefficient and expensive to run. The generator running costs are covered the village households. That money harder to come by post tsunami.
Donors had offered to buy a new replacement generator for the village. But they didn't want a new one, they just wanted to repair the old one. Why? Assisted by Peach, one of our many great Thai translators, we set out for Laem Naew to talk with the villagers.
After a lengthy discussion it became clear what the problem was. They knew how to fix the old one! And the extravagence of buying a new one didn't sit well with the villagers. We worked out a compromise. The village would allow us to buy them a reconditioned second hand generator, including maintenance training.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jowdi/23478443/in/photostream/
Delivery of the new generator
CHILDREN
All over the tsunami-affected Andaman region many children lost either one or both of their parents. 2,500 baht, or $60, supports one child for half a year. NATR's scholarship and education funds already take care of 16 children on Laem Naew. And in co-operation with some wonderfuol individuals (Beth, Dicky and Jacqui) help support many more.
The scholarship funds are administered through the teacher's in the local schools. The teachers take on additional responsibilities such as handling opening bank accounts in the children's names. Being a co-signee on the account so that monies withdrawn go to school needs for the children. For the records the children have their photos, names and school details taken and entered in the database. NATR staff are in constant contact with the teachers and the villagers. Relationships are built that transcend language and culture.
Other things we're working on getting funding for are tools and materials to build more squid traps, fish nets and crab traps. To continue with boat repair, mangrove reforestation, scholarships and educational programs, fresh vegetable deliveries, building community service centers, repairing rickety bridges etcetera etcetera etcetera.
This work is emotionaly, physically and psychologically challenging. But the rewards so outweigh the discomforts it's possible to keep going.
In the 'office' everyone works 16 hours a day every day here. It's intense but rewarding at the same time. Our entire technology inventory consists of 3 laptops, all borrowed. Internet access is by dialp-up DKU2 phone. Effectively as fast as a string and two cans.
Initial goals are to provide immediate, short term aid to survivors who strive to get their lives and livelihoods back on track. And attempt to so in an ecologically and sustainable way, where appropriate. A longterm goal is to provide vocational educational training for survivors who wish to choose a different lifestyle post-tsunami. Many survivors won't return to their former lives, fearing another tsunami. Or are simply unable to face living in a place that caused them so great loss.
Regular fresh food and vegetable deliveries ease life in the villages and temporary camps. The Thai Government supplies some stables like rice, but they do not provide fresh vegetables. Vegetables cost money and survivors have none. Family incomes have been slashed to zero because there is no work, no boats to fish, no nets to catch crabs.
Imagine how much fresh food you need for a community!
NATR helps to provide tools and equipment to fishermen for boats, nets and trap repair. Equipment will enable fishermen to begin fishing again and earning money. Tsunami survivors certainly appreciate all the help from around the world as a whole, but like you or I, they are anxious to get back on their feet. To start earning an income again so they can take care of their families.
Hilarious situations and curious requests abound along the way. Most entertaining was delivery of some 300 live chickens. My dearest friend Bonnie describes the process on her web blog best.
FROM LIVESTOCK REPLACEMENT PROGRAM
"The Thai government has agreed to assist some villages with replacement of livestock, but will not begin the process for at least 6 months. In the village of Laem Naew, some goats and water buffalo survived, but most of the chickens in the village perished in the tsunami. All 30 households in the village owned chickens. Community discussions reveal that goats and water buffalo are not viable solutions in the short term, due to the fact that the grass upon which they feed has died, and will take time to grow back. Therefore, chickens are the most useful livestock at this time.
Focus groups have indicated that villagers prefer the local variety chickens from Ranong rather than factory-bred chickens from Takua Pa. Local (wild) chickens do not require feed and regular feeding."
Do you have wild chickens there in Ranong?
"Yes, we have wild chickens."
We need approximately ten per family, thirty families.
"Okay."
So you have the chickens.
"Yes, we have the chickens."
We need 300 chickens. You have 300 wild chickens.
"Yes, we have the chickens."
NATR staff drives to Ranong to acquire chickens for Laem Naew. When we get there, we discover there are no wild chickens. We call another village.
Do you have wild chickens?
"Yes, we have wild chickens."
We drive to the village. They have five wild chickens. Five. All running around, well, wild.
Can we get the chickens?
"You cannot catch them now."
We cannot catch them now? Why?
"You cannot catch wild chickens. Very difficult."
But we need the chickens.
"You must come at midnight. The chickens sleep then. You catch the chickens at night."
Okay.
Several local villages later, NATR staff acquires and delivers chickens according to the local methodology. Yet another culturally sensitive success for our chaos surfing team.
Wild chickens propsper on Laem Naew
Laem Naew is my favorite village. As it's a muslim village I cover up completely when visiting. Which is a very sweaty experience in the height of a hot, humid Thai Summer!
Laem Naew sits on a piece of land jutting out into the Andaman Sea. There are no roads to the village. To get there I drive an hour to the nearest pier, then take 30 minute long-boat trip. One particular boat trip stands out in my mind. On board were 3 Sherpas from Nepal, 2 Christian ministers, many US volunteers, myself and a Muslim family from Laem Naem who's little son sported an Osama Bin Laden T-shirt, quickly covered up by his Mother when she noticed me looking at it. I smiled to myself, amazed at the moment. So many cultures and people sharing such a tiny vessel in peace.
A glimpse of the the Mosque's golden roof tells me we're close.
Why is it my favorite village? Because they don't ask for more than they need.
When Laem Naew's old electricity generator failed, they borrowed one from a shop in Ranong. Hoping to fix the old one, an inspection showed it had been cobbled together from different manufacturers, parts impossible to replace. It was inefficient and expensive to run. The generator running costs are covered the village households. That money harder to come by post tsunami.
Donors had offered to buy a new replacement generator for the village. But they didn't want a new one, they just wanted to repair the old one. Why? Assisted by Peach, one of our many great Thai translators, we set out for Laem Naew to talk with the villagers.
After a lengthy discussion it became clear what the problem was. They knew how to fix the old one! And the extravagence of buying a new one didn't sit well with the villagers. We worked out a compromise. The village would allow us to buy them a reconditioned second hand generator, including maintenance training.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jowdi/23478443/in/photostream/
Delivery of the new generator
CHILDREN
All over the tsunami-affected Andaman region many children lost either one or both of their parents. 2,500 baht, or $60, supports one child for half a year. NATR's scholarship and education funds already take care of 16 children on Laem Naew. And in co-operation with some wonderfuol individuals (Beth, Dicky and Jacqui) help support many more.
The scholarship funds are administered through the teacher's in the local schools. The teachers take on additional responsibilities such as handling opening bank accounts in the children's names. Being a co-signee on the account so that monies withdrawn go to school needs for the children. For the records the children have their photos, names and school details taken and entered in the database. NATR staff are in constant contact with the teachers and the villagers. Relationships are built that transcend language and culture.
Other things we're working on getting funding for are tools and materials to build more squid traps, fish nets and crab traps. To continue with boat repair, mangrove reforestation, scholarships and educational programs, fresh vegetable deliveries, building community service centers, repairing rickety bridges etcetera etcetera etcetera.
This work is emotionaly, physically and psychologically challenging. But the rewards so outweigh the discomforts it's possible to keep going.
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