Evason Phuket Raceweek 2005

The annual Evason Phuket Raceweek is on. 5 days of yacht racing, prize giving and post race stories. How on earth am I here? The Race organizer, Andy, has connections with someone who knows NATR. In fact the Evason Spa and Hotel, where the contestants and post-race activities are being held, have their own post-Tsunami relief projects underway. Working with Ban Bangmuang school, they are helping to build a Learning Center.

With the relief projects connection between us, they invited NATR to show off it's Moken Handicrafts project. Appropriate as the Moken handicrafts are gorgeously made replicas of Kabang boats.

Mit, a new volunteer with NATR, Bodhi and I met up on 24th. They brought a large range of moken boats to sell. It was so good having their company. Needless to say we had a great evening at the Evason introductory party and cocktail hour. An essential part of the job you know, smoozing with the potential buyers.

The Governer of Phuket gave his speech to the crowd. Less pompous and stiff than many of the usual politician's, he gave a very genuine speech about how the Regatta helped tsunami recovery in so many ways. Bodhi's speech introduced who NATR is, why we're there and what our Moken project was about.

After the cocktail hour the three of us headed to Scruffy Murphy's, followed by a couple of other interesting bars along the Patong way. Finally hitting the sack at about 1:00am in the morning. I love when NATR folks come down to Patong, it livens up my currently very quiet life.

The 25th was set up day requiring some shopping for parts to make signs, hang signs, and generally pretty up the display area. As the display area was down on the beach, I had to park the car up at the top of a series of steps. Mit and I carried down the boats, two by two. It was hot work and the display area doesn't have a natural breeze flowing through it.

Finally we had the boats set out and the signs out. The evenings entertainment began, the prizes were given out and Trevor, a psychiatric nurse who was DJ'ing for the even, gave us a great introduction. Trevor's a very cool character to talk to. Living in Thailand for the last umpteen years, he dealt with many of the post-tsunami survivors and their grieving and counseling. He is an admirable individual, and, as with many of the people I've met in the last 6 months, someone to treasure knowing.

Many people expressed interest and we did sell a couple of boats our first evening. We hope more over the next couple of days as many people said they'd be back prepared to buy.

The Evason staff working the whole event are awesome. Helping us to get a better spot for the display, arranging night lighting, getting tables for setting up. And they are so interested to hear about the crafts and our tsunami relief. Wanting to know how are the children, do they have parents, do they go to school? I was able to answer that many are orphans, some lost one parent. NATR's scholarship funds are supporting those children who are both orphans, single parents and generally affected by the tsunami. They have 2 years of guaranteed suppport. Hopefully we can extend that up to college going age.

One gentleman I met had spent 7 months with the Moken in the Mergui Peninsula a good number of years ago and of course immediately recognized the distinctive Moken boat shape. His companion had also made a film on them some time ago. In fact there's supposed to be someone here called Marco currently making another documentary on the Moken.

I wonder what tonight will bring? I'm on my own for the next 2 nights selling the boats. As with any sea-based events, there are some salty characters. Hope I meet more tonight!

Sigh - another earthquake evacuation

My sleep patterns have been off recently. I put it down to Jeff not being here right now. I miss him. I miss having someone to curl up to going asleep. It was 11:45pm and I still coudn't sleep when a call came from Pa (number 1 daughter). Surprised at the lateness of the call I answered wondering what could be up. "Had I heard there'd been an 7.2 earthquake in Sumatra?" Pa asked. No, I hadn't. And the Thai Government had given a tsunami warning.

Pulling on my clothes I headed downstairs to talk with the security guard and Ot. I knew Ot would still be up and sufing the internet. It took me a couple of moments to explain in my little bits of Thai that we were going to have to wake Wassana and start a tsunami watch.

Heading back up stairs to get my backpack, which holds my life, Ot headed off to wake Wassana and get his bag.

Neither Ot nor Wassana are comfortable speaking the little English they know. As the News was in Thai, it was going to be an interesting translation night.

Japan had warned Thailand to expect a tsunami. A 50 - 50 chance. Looking at the USGS earthquake page, talking to Jeff in the US and seeing the earthquake was on the West side, not where the December earthqake had been, I figured the chances were pretty slim of a large tsunami. There would be small tsunami waves, but nothing damaging or serious. In any case our little hotel is 2 roads back from the beach. The December tsunami had washed over the lower floor, up to a couple of inches, but nothing damaging.

That didn't matter, Ot, Wassana and the Security Guard were believing the news and looked worried. Attempting to explain the logistics of what is necessary for a tsunami, they finally got it that it was really not likely this time.

Many people in Patong were heading for the hills. The Tsunami warning system had been set off, and there some sort official car announcing something in Thai drove along our road. I hope they said something in English for the non-Thai speaking Farang. But it probably didn't matter, the sound quality was so bad it was difficult to make out whether it was Thai or English in the first place.

My friends and colleagues at North Andaman Tsunami Relief kept me up to date with any new information they got. Most of the coastla villages in and around Kuraburi, Phang Nga province, had evacuated.

Thai news warned us that it would be 2 hours before the danger was over. By 2:00am I was bored and tired. Finally we got the all clear, no tsunami this time. Everyone headed off to bed.

I guess I shouldn't sigh about a good tsunami warning and exercise, but this is the fourth since March, and the edge is gone off the initial adrenalin rush of the past.

Dogs' balls

The wild dogs on Kho Phrathong island are causing problems with the local wildlife. They kill whatever they can for food. They're a mangy lot. Many have festering sores, hairless because of mange so bad they're bald, so think they're nearly invisible. But they're still well able to propogate. So much so that on one part of the island, Tapa Yoi village, there are now about 80 dogs.

The villagers were offered the opportunity to have the dogs nutered. The heads of all three villages on Kho Phrathong agreed and so a plan was devised. The dogs would be fed in the late evenings, close to the villages for a few days prior to the pending neutering. The villagers would capture the dogs the night before the veterinarians were due to arrive so that it would be a quick fix and release operation. The 10 veterinarians were offering their professional services for a very small fee to help solve the dog explostion problem on the island.

Tung Dap village went as planned, many dogs were neutered successfully. But the Pu Yai (Chief) of the village hadn't done the requested work. In fact he's a bit of a charlatan and is only in any project for what he can get out of it. As Chief of the village he has a lot of power and pretty much has caused the Tapa Yoi people many unnecessary difficulties since the tsunami than there needed to be. So much so that the village decamped to the local Wat on the mainland of Kuraburi at one point, even though their houses hadn't been destroyed by the tsunami. To chose to live in a tent in the grounds of the Wat in preference to your home tells you how much he affected and continues to affect their lives.

Anyway, at the end of the day only 10 dogs were captured and neutered at Tapa Yoi. But the volunteers on the island for the weekend of neutering were able to get some satisfaction from the Tung Dap success plus getting some clearing and replanting done in the mangroves. Another laptop and blackberry were found in the mangroves, washed their by the wave.

Land owners in Costa Rica

I can't believe it, but we're now land owners in Costa Rica. It's in a small town of about 2,000 people called Cahuita on the Caribbean coast. The property has over 30 coconut trees, some banana and papaya trees and 2 dogs. Yes, 2 dogs. The 2 dogs apparently come with the land.

It's bare, nothing there except trees and jungle vegetation. We're hoping to build a house and a couple of cabinas. Eventually we'll rent it out as we continue on our world journey. And the actual building of living quarters won't start until next year (2006) some time anyway.

But, it's so exciting. I'm now beginning research on how houses are built. Phew, there's a lot to know. Plus there's all the legal things that have to go just right so there are no problems. It's pretty easy to own property in Costa Rica, the hard part will be getting the house and cabinas built.

Another language to learn - Costa Rican Spanish.

Big Spider

Spider as big as my hand. Oh oh. It ran under the curtains, after I'd tried and failed to catch it in a box.

Later it appeared between the mosquito screen and the window, trapping it in such a way that I could push it towards the open glass door. Then I hooshed it out. Phew. I shut the doors - twang. I felt relieved. Logically I know there are more lurking somewhere - just not in my bedroom ... please.

Delicious, scrumptious fruit

Some of the delicious fruit we've tasted so far...

Durian
Farang
Rambutan
Longan
Longsat
Lychee
Snake fruit
Dragon fruit
Pineapple
Tamarind
Cashew fruit
Papaya
Mangoes
Water Melon
Apple banana
Tangerine
Jackfruit
Coconut
Pomelo
Guava
Mangosteen

Peter's birthday party

Tae and her 4 sisters, plus Debra, Peter and I set off for Rang Rak (Love Nest), the best restaurant we've found so far in Kathu. Celebrating Peter's birthday with a sumptuous Thai meal, giving of gift and birthday cards, and devouring THE most delicious birthday cake I've ever tasted - and I don't even like cakes.

Off to Galaxy for some music and dancing nightclubbing, then onto karaoke. I left at 3:00am, the others left somewhere much later than that.

Metz - Number 3 son's graduation ceremony

Metz (Somchai), my number 3 son, graduated from the Political Science faculty of Chualalongkorn University, Bangkok, on 14th July 2005. Determination and a clear goal won him a full scholarship to one of Thailand's most famous Universities. As the oldest of 4 sons, hopefully he's leading the way for his younger siblings. Metz's parents are farmers, living and working their farm in Rayong, some 3 hours drive from Bangkok.


Metz Mom and Dad

Children from wealthier families easily pay the Chualalongkorn University fees, Metz had to earn his every inch of the way. I am so proud of him. It is within Metz to rise to great heights in his life and work.


Number 3 son Metz (Somchai)

Metz had spent the summer months working with NATR, translating and helping with the co-ordination of projects for our NGO. I remember one specific conversation with him which told me how deeply he cared for the betterment of all people in Thailand. It didn't matter if they were Burmese, Thai, Moken, Hmong, Muslim, Bhuddist, Christian. Metz's zeal is to level the playing fields for ordinary people. To give people a chance. To try and redress the terrible abuses and corruption that government, military and other officials exact from the poorest of the poor. Sometimes endangering their livelihoods and even their lives. His determination if nothing else will surely make it happen.

That's not to say Thailand's either the only corrupt country or is all bad. Not at all. I consider all politicians corrupt to a greater or lesser degree, no matter what country they are from. The West simply manages to hide the corruption better.

What Thailand has going for it, besides Metz, is it's people, they are true their wealth.

Princess Marachakri Sirindthorn, who had visited Kuraburi a few months earlier and met Metz, presented him with his Degree certificate.

All throughout the day hords of current University students, dressed in uniforms, would gather around the people graduating and sing and dance in a circle to celebrate the event.



People milled around in bunches and singles, just enjoying the excitement and air of happiness throughout the day.


Waiting to present a celebratory bouquet


Pretty in Pink


Celebrating at dinner afterwards


Mom, Dad, Metz and his three brothers. Little Nim the rascal managed to sneak into the photo too


The bowtie fixing


Metz and college friends


Metz and Georgi


Hying and Phylippa


Vendors sell their wares to hungry graduates, friends and families


Brothers celebrate together

All in all it was a great day. We ended up on Khaosan road in a small nightclub at the back of a less than sparkling mall.